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Getting Started

Tools needed for replacing the brakes:

• Torque wrench (that measures in the 80-110lbs range)
• 7mm hex tool
• 17mm socket
• A light

1. Remove the wheel.
2. Identify the following pieces:
   • Brake Caliper: This is the bulk of the item that is clamped onto the rotor, and is what youll be removing. The yellow-colored screw socket in the photo is part of the brake caliper.
   • Caliper Bracket: This is the piece that secures the brake caliper to the axle. It is the bright green component in the photo.
   • Spring Clip: This is the metal wire clip that secures the outside of the brake caliper to the caliper bracket. It is the red piece in the photo.

Remove the Spring Clip

3. Using a pair of pliers, pull the spring clip out of the caliper. You should grab the clip at the section where it enters the hole in the caliper, and pull out away towards the back of the car.

Remove the Brake Caliper

4. Locate the two 7mm hex screw sockets in the back of the brake caliper (they are the yellow parts in the photos, and are made of rubber). Each has a plastic cap on it that has to be removed by prying it off with a flathead screwdriver.
5. Unscrew the two hex screws.
6. Remove the brake caliper from the caliper bracket. If the caliper seems to be stuck on there, try grabbing the caliper and pulling it towards you, with a little force. That should retract the piston enough to loosen its grip on the rotor and allow you to remove the caliper.
7. Have some kind of platform ready to rest the caliper on. This allows you to get the caliper out of the way without disconnecting the brake line (which Im assuming would make things quite messy).

Retract the Brake Piston

8. Remove the outer brake pad but keep the inner one on, for now. Youll probably need to pry it off since the Audi pads seem to have a sticky film that glues the pad to the caliper.
9. Because your new pads will be much thicker than the old pads, youll need to push the piston back into the caliper to be able to fit the new pads onto the rotor.
10. Check your brake fluid level and unscrew the cap, if necessary. Pushing the piston back will raise the fluid level so you want to keep an eye on it and make sure you catch any overflow.
11. I used a C-clamp to push it back, which seemed like the easiest way to do it.
12. Remove the inner pad.

Remove the Caliper Bracket & Rotor

13. Remove the two 17mm bolts that fasten the caliper bracket to the axle (the two yellow lines show where the bracket is attached). The bolts are extremely tight, and can be very difficult to loosen — especially if youre only using triangle stands because you have very little room for leverage. I had to use my foot, and also my jack to apply enough force to the socket wrench.
14. Remove the caliper bracket.
15. Once the bracket is removed, remove the rotor (if it hasnt fallen off already).

Installing the New Pads and Rotors

16. Now do everything in reverse for the new components. Because I replaced both the pads and rotors at the same time, I didnt have to worry about re-bedding the existing rotors. However, Ive heard that the Mintex are exact OEM replacements so re-bedding may not be necessary for you if you just replaced the stock pads.
17. Install the new rotor.
18. Attach the caliper bracket with the two 17mm bolts. You must tighten them to 92 ft-lbs.
19. Insert the new brake pads into the brake caliper. The brake pad with the metal flanges is the inner pad that attaches directly to the piston.
20. Attach the caliper to the bracket, and fasten with the two 7mm hex screws.
21. Cap the screw sockets with the two plastic caps.
22. Insert the spring clip back into the caliper. Putting it back in is harder than getting it out. Make sure that its completely seated.
23. Put your wheel back on.
24. Repeat steps 1 through 22 for the other wheel.
25. Check your brake fluid level, and bleed them if its over the “max” level. Replace the cap.
26. Test drive your car around the block slowly. The Mintex pads recommend light braking for the first 200 miles to allow them to bed properly.

Update: After putting about 400 miles on them, the pads and rotors feel fine, although the pads certainly lack that "bite" that the stock pads have. Yes, brake dust is cut down, but personally I like the stock pad "bite" better.

Getting Started

Tools needed for replacing the brakes:

• Torque wrench (that measures in the 80-110lbs range)
• 7mm hex tool
• 17mm socket
• A light

1. Remove the wheel.
2. Identify the following pieces:
   • Brake Caliper: This is the bulk of the item that is clamped onto the rotor, and is what youll be removing. The yellow-colored screw socket in the photo is part of the brake caliper.
   • Caliper Bracket: This is the piece that secures the brake caliper to the axle. It is the bright green component in the photo.
   • Spring Clip: This is the metal wire clip that secures the outside of the brake caliper to the caliper bracket. It is the red piece in the photo.

Remove the Spring Clip

3. Using a pair of pliers, pull the spring clip out of the caliper. You should grab the clip at the section where it enters the hole in the caliper, and pull out away towards the back of the car.

Remove the Brake Caliper

4. Locate the two 7mm hex screw sockets in the back of the brake caliper (they are the yellow parts in the photos, and are made of rubber). Each has a plastic cap on it that has to be removed by prying it off with a flathead screwdriver.
5. Unscrew the two hex screws.
6. Remove the brake caliper from the caliper bracket. If the caliper seems to be stuck on there, try grabbing the caliper and pulling it towards you, with a little force. That should retract the piston enough to loosen its grip on the rotor and allow you to remove the caliper.
7. Have some kind of platform ready to rest the caliper on. This allows you to get the caliper out of the way without disconnecting the brake line (which Im assuming would make things quite messy).

Retract the Brake Piston

8. Remove the outer brake pad but keep the inner one on, for now. Youll probably need to pry it off since the Audi pads seem to have a sticky film that glues the pad to the caliper.
9. Because your new pads will be much thicker than the old pads, youll need to push the piston back into the caliper to be able to fit the new pads onto the rotor.
10. Check your brake fluid level and unscrew the cap, if necessary. Pushing the piston back will raise the fluid level so you want to keep an eye on it and make sure you catch any overflow.
11. I used a C-clamp to push it back, which seemed like the easiest way to do it.
12. Remove the inner pad.

Remove the Caliper Bracket & Rotor

13. Remove the two 17mm bolts that fasten the caliper bracket to the axle (the two yellow lines show where the bracket is attached). The bolts are extremely tight, and can be very difficult to loosen — especially if youre only using triangle stands because you have very little room for leverage. I had to use my foot, and also my jack to apply enough force to the socket wrench.
14. Remove the caliper bracket.
15. Once the bracket is removed, remove the rotor (if it hasnt fallen off already).

Installing the New Pads and Rotors

16. Now do everything in reverse for the new components. Because I replaced both the pads and rotors at the same time, I didnt have to worry about re-bedding the existing rotors. However, Ive heard that the Mintex are exact OEM replacements so re-bedding may not be necessary for you if you just replaced the stock pads.
17. Install the new rotor.
18. Attach the caliper bracket with the two 17mm bolts. You must tighten them to 92 ft-lbs.
19. Insert the new brake pads into the brake caliper. The brake pad with the metal flanges is the inner pad that attaches directly to the piston.
20. Attach the caliper to the bracket, and fasten with the two 7mm hex screws.
21. Cap the screw sockets with the two plastic caps.
22. Insert the spring clip back into the caliper. Putting it back in is harder than getting it out. Make sure that its completely seated.
23. Put your wheel back on.
24. Repeat steps 1 through 22 for the other wheel.
25. Check your brake fluid level, and bleed them if its over the “max” level. Replace the cap.
26. Test drive your car around the block slowly. The Mintex pads recommend light braking for the first 200 miles to allow them to bed properly.

Update: After putting about 400 miles on them, the pads and rotors feel fine, although the pads certainly lack that "bite" that the stock pads have. Yes, brake dust is cut down, but personally I like the stock pad "bite" better.